ProCut Contour Or Servo Vinyl Cutter Setup SignCut Pro (Mac or PC)

1) Download the latest version of SignCut from:

  1. http://www.signcutpro.com/
  2. Select Downloads from the top menu
  3. http://www.signcutpro.com/download-signcut-productivity-pro/
  4. Open the “+” to see the files and select Windows
    or Mac version.
  5. TIP: You can download the plugins for InkScape,
    Corel Draw and Illustrator here as well. Do this after you have installed
    SignCut Pro
  6. http://www.signcutpro.com/download-available-plug-ins/

2) Allow your explorer to run (install) the software

  1. Alternatively you may save this file to your computer and install it after it has been copied to your hard drive. This can be done by selecting save to disk.

3) Agree to the license terms

4) Accept the default directory and install

5) Select yes to InkScape if you wish to install InkScape. InkScape is a free graphics  program capable of bitmap vectorization somewhat similar to Corel Draw and Adobe Illustrator.

  1. TIP: SignCut may not install the latest copy of InkScape. We recommend you go to www.InkScape.org to download and install the latest stable version directly from the InkScape web site.
  2. Accept all the defaults to install InkScape when the InkScape pop-up installation window appears.

6) If you purchased a permanent license of SignCut and have a dongle key (USB thumb drive), plug it in now.

7) Open SignCut

8) SignCut will ask you for your registration code.

  1. If you purchased your cutter with a 1 year license, you will receive a bundle code on a bright yellow or green 8.5×11 sheet of paper included with your cutter. It may be in the small box inside the cutter box or included in the documentation packet. It will say “Document of Value” at the top and contain a bundle code (this is NOT the registration code). Follow the instructions on this sheet of paper to go to http://www.signcutpro.com/register-bundle/
    This will allow you to register your bundle code. You will then receive the actual SignCut 1 year license code through your email and listed on the registration screen. This process takes a couple minutes and the codes are issued right away. Copy the registration code and save it in notepad or other editor program.
  2. If you purchased a dongle, CutterPros will register your license with SignCut. Depending on timing, your activation code will either be with the dongle or it will be emailed to you. Enter this code into SignCut to activate the dongle license.

9) Once registered, you will need to select your cutter and communication port. This is done by selecting the Cutter button at the top right-center of the screen. Select the manufacturer, your cutter and the port.

  1. Manufacturer – Saga
  2. Cutter –
    1. ProCut Contour 2400 – Saga 720I
    2. ProCut Contour 4800 – Saga 1350I
    3. ProCut Servo 2400 – Saga 720II
    4. ProCut Servo 4800 – Saga 1350II
    5. ProCut Servo 6400 – Saga 1750II
  3. Port – USB00# where # is the USB port number of your cutter. (For MAC, this will be Saga USB)
  4. The communication settings will grey out because this is a direct connection.

10)  Remove your blade holder from the carriage (the blade holder is the metal tube in the carriage that holds the blade). This can be done by unscrewing the thumb screw and pulling the blade holder up and out of the carriage.

11)  In SignCut, select the text button on the left side of the screen. Type an X in the text box and say OK. SignCut will display an X on the screen.

12) Select the cut icon on the left side of the screen

13)   The cut / plot pop up window will display

14)   Select to “Cut out” in the bottom left corner to send a test cut to your cutter.

15)  Your cutter should move around as if it were cutting the X.

16)   Your cutter is now communicating with SignCut and is ready!

Finishing Up

With your software installed, and your cutter setup on its stand and connected to your computer, we highly recommend you call us at 888-828-8776 to schedule your training session. Training sessions take approximately 1 to 2 hours and can cover SignCut, Flexi, InkScape (text on path, offsets, vectorization), contour cutting and your cutter functionality. Training is free and included for the life of the cutter regardless of the
warranty or cutter purchased.

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ProCut Contour And Servo Vinyl Cutter New Customer Setup

When you receive your cutter, open the box from the top being careful not to penetrate the box with a razor blade so as not to scratch the contents inside. The banding straps will need to be cut with a pair of scissors or a cutting tool.

Contained under one of the box flaps on the top there may be documentation. Please save all documentation that comes with your vinyl cutter. Additional documentation may be contained in the box with the cutter or inside a smaller box packaged with the cutter.

Your vinyl cutter package will contain your vinyl cutter along with a small box of supplies such as the blade holder, blades, USB cable, software, etc.

Your stand and if ordered, your basket, will be in a separate box in the bottom of the cutter box, underneath the cutter.

In order to insure you have access to the latest revision of information, we have placed the setup instructions and the manual for your vinyl cutter online. These can be downloaded from the CutterPros Tech Support Page available at the following address. You will need the free Acrobat PDF viewer to view the files. To install the free viewer, go to http://www.adobe.com.

http://www.cutterpros.com/downloads/

The user manual for the cutter (also has stand setup instructions) E1:

http://www.cutterpros.com/downloads/procutcontourmanual.pdf
Cutter setup instructions E2:

http://www.cutterpros.com/downloads/contourcuttersetup.pdf

Setup your cutter on the stand, install your basket if you have one.

Plug your cutter into your computer using the USB cable. If you need a longer cable you can purchase one. Any high quality standard USB-Printer cable will work.

Plug in the power cord for the cutter. Turn your cutter on with the power switch at the end of the cutter. The cutter will go through a short setup and the LCD will glow blue.

Your cutter will use default drivers included in Windows. These drivers will self-install. Your cutter is now communicating with your computer.

Your cutter is oriented such that as you look at the front, the blue LCD display is to the right.

Vinyl rolls are placed on the stand rails in the back (alternatively you may place a roll bar through the vinyl roll. Vinyl is then fed from the back to the front of the cutter and as the vinyl cuts, vinyl comes out towards you. In general, vinyl is used from the right side to the left side. Positive X and Y go from right to left and from front to back.

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Vinyl Cutter Tracking Quality Parameters Effects and Causes

Tracking is the ability of a vinyl cutter to be able to return to the correct point after cutting out a loop. It is easy for a vinyl cutter to track over short distances and small loops of a few inches or so however, if your loops become substantially large such as 10′ or so you may need to adjust some things so your loops close and your vinyl cutter maintains its tracking.

Here are some parameters you will need to adjust when your loops exceed 10 feet or so:

1) In general, servo cutters track slightly better than stepper cutters. This is due to both the higher resolution of the motor encoding for a servo motor as well as less vibration (smoother operation) being present in a servo system.

2) Dirt and dust that get deposited on both the rubber wheels on the top rollers and on the grit rollers on the bottom will reduce the friction between the wheels and the vinyl. The cutter depends on a high friction factor between the roller wheels and the vinyl to maintain a good track. Usually, what happens is that when a long cut is made, the vinyl hits the floor. When it hits the floor it picks up substantial debris (lint, dust, etc) due to static charge. This debris deposits itself on the rollers and makes them slippery. We recommend for long cutting that you get a basket to catch the vinyl so it doesn’t hit the floor. In addition, prior to any long cutting, we recommend cleaning the top and bottom rollers. The top rollers can be cleaned with a cotton cloth with some ammonia based cleaner (such as glass cleaner). The bottom rollers can be cleaned with a dry tooth brush. Be careful not to deposit cloth fibers on the bottom roller.

3) In order to increase the friction force between the vinyl and the rollers we recommend increasing the force on the top rollers. This can be done with the adjustment nuts on the back of the rollers.

4) Another factor that decreases the tracking ability of a cutter is the speed which it is run at. When cutting at high speed, the rollers will depart more kinetic energy into the vinyl. When the cutter has to stop the vinyl from a high speed condition, some of that kinetic energy may result in slippage between the vinyl and the rollers. To reduce the vinyl inertia and reduce slippage between the roller wheels and the vinyl it is advisable to reduce the cutting speed. In general, cutting at slower speed will result in better tracking. Use a speed of about 100 mm/s for Saga cutters.

5) Roll out your vinyl in advance and use a sharp blade. By doing this, you can reduce the force against the roller bar and thus reduce any slippage that would occur due to these forces. By rolling out your vinyl you will also insure that your vinyl is adequately lined up to the cutter over the distance you expect to be cutting. We recommend rolling out the length of vinyl that will be used in your run and making sure that the vinyl is tracking straight with the cutter over that distance. Line up the vinyl with the cutter within 1 mark on the ruler over the distance of the cut. The vinyl can wobble left / right within a mark but it cannot walk more than 1 mark in either direction. This can be frustrating to get the vinyl running that straight but it is necessary for good tracking. It takes a little practice and a little time.

6) If you are running vinyl that is smaller than your cutter size (for instance, 24″ wide vinyl being run in a 48″ cutter), center the vinyl with respect to the rollers which are closest to the center of the cutter. There is a natural bow in the cutter due to the roller spring forces and the blade forces. Not centering the vinyl on the cutter will cause the vinyl to creep due to this bow. It is more important to select the rollers that are evenly spaced for the vinyl width over vinyl centering. For 24” width vinyl on a 48” cutter this means using rollers 1, 3 and 4 for a Saga cutter. This is better than running the material down the center of the cutter.

7) Use the sharpest blade. This is likely a 60° blade. This will allow for the least resistance of the blade through the vinyl. Use a newer blade. Newer blades are sharper.

8) Use the lowest possible force that cuts through the vinyl with the sharpest blade. For the servos, this is a setting around 50 or so for a 45° blade, possibly lower force for a 60° blade.

9) Make sure that the vinyl is free to loosely fall in front and behind the cutter. If there is any extraneous left / right forces or if a corner of the vinyl snags on something or if it kinks it will throw the tracking off. The vinyl must be free to move as it needs to. A basket is highly recommended for the best vinyl handling.

10) The above recommendations will apply not only to ProCut / Saga vinyl cutters but most vinyl cutters that don’t employ a perforation tracking system. With perforated vinyl, the cutter does not depend on friction between the vinyl and the rollers for tracking but rather has the vinyl perforations and mechanical pins to mechanically restrict vinyl tracking to the rollers. Because of this, in general, perforated vinyl systems track better than roller friction based systems.

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Vectorization Of A Photograph For Vinyl Cutting Using InkScape

As many of our clients are aware, vinyl cutting is easy. Most of the time and effort involved in the creation of a custom decal is spent with cleaning up artwork or, if the decal is intricate with small features, with weeding. Below, you can see a sample of a picture that was vectorized in InkScape, cleaned in InkScape and then cut with a ProCut cutter. This artwork was submitted by Randall. He received his cutter and his training session approximately 1 week prior to completing this project. The time from photograph to finished decal was approximately 3 hours with the majority of the time spent in the vectorization and clean-up phase. The results are very good as it is readily apparent that Randall took his time cleaning the artwork. Note that in some cases, you may need to vectorize an image different ways and then use part of the detail from one vectorization and part of the detail from another vectorization. Also note the detail that Randall was able to carry from the picture to the decal. All the important profiles are present in the decal which allows the viewer to capture the essence of the picture that the decal was derived from. The ability to accomplish this usually comes from substantial practice.

Start from this picture:

Interim phase with vectorization needing cleanup:

 

To the finished product:

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ProCut ARMS Vinyl Cutter By Saga Automatic Registration Mark Cutting With SignCut Pro

The process of ARMS cutting is simple however, there are some important points that you will need to be aware of.

1) The first step is to create your contour outline with registration marks. The registration marks used by the ARMS Vinyl Cutter system are simple “L” shaped lines in the four corners. It is helpful if you can make these corner registration marks thicker than a normal line. Perhaps 1 mm (.040″) thick or so and they should be black or should be the color that maximizes the contrast relative to the color of the base media. These 8 lines in the corners should be 25 mm long which is .98425″ (not one inch). The length of these lines is important. If they are too long they will not be recognized by SignCut as registration markers and if they are too short there won’t be enough zone for automatically detecting them. 25 mm is just right. See picture below. In addition, the marks should be orthogonal with respect to each other and they should be directly in-line with one another and define the outer bounding box of the image. Make sure the registration mark lines are not offset with respect to one another.

2) SignCut will cut all the vector art in your image except for the 8 registration marker lines in the corners. Make sure your contour cut file contains only the 8 registration marks in the corners and the countour cut path. Non-vector art like JPEG artwork is OK as it will not be cut by SignCut but make sure to remove any other vector art you do not want cut as part of the contour.

3) Make sure you are using the latest version of SignCut. You will need SignCut version 1.96 to support the ARMS system. This version can be obtained by going to SignCut here, not by checking for updates through the SignCut Help menu:

http://www.signcutpro.com/download-signcut-productivity-pro/

4) Next, open your contour cut path with the 4 L shaped corner registration markers in SignCut. The image will open and appear vertical in the SignCut window. Keep in mind that vertical orientation in the SignCut screen is left to right on your cutter. If you wish to place your artwork in front to back orientation as you look at your cutter, you will need to rotate your image 90° in SignCut so the orientations match. Matching the orientation between your artwork in SignCut and the artwork on the cutter is very important.

5) Place a small test piece of vinyl in your cutter that is similar to the material you will be contour cutting. Set your force and speed on the cutter and press the test button which will cause the cutter to cut a triangle / square test pattern. Verify that you can weed the square and that your blade doesn’t penetrate the release liner.

6) Next, load your artwork into the vinyl cutter in the orientation you wish to cut at. Try to align your media with the cutter as best as possible. It may be useful to roll the media front to back a few times to check for rotational alignment. If the media is not well lined up with the cutter, lift the rollers, rotate your media slightly, lower the rollers and then roll the media front to back again to verify. Repeat as necessary.

7) Next, turn on the laser on the cutter and you will see the optic sensor laser on your image. Take the cutter offline and use the arrow keys to move the cutter head and the media so that the laser is in the center of the bottom right target. It should be in the center of the 25 x 25 mm square created by the lower right alignment mark line segments. It is important that you line up the laser with the center so that the automatic alignment algorithms find the first mark properly. SignCut expects this initial position so the first thing SignCut will do is look to the right and then look down to find these two first line segments. Place the laser where the X is marked in the image below. See picture.

8) In SignCut select the “Cutter” button at the top right corner, for your ARMS cutting system please select SAGA and the Cutter will be one of the following ARMS equipped cutters:

  • 28″ -> SAGA-720IP, SAGA-720-IIP
  • 53″ -> SAGA-1350IP, SAGA-1350IIP
  • 68″ -> SAGA-1750IP, SAGA-1750IIP

The output device / port will be a USB port such as USB001. If you have multiple USB ports listed, start with the highest port number and if a connection is not established then try another port. When one of the Saga ARMS systems is selected as the cutter the Saga ARMS cut will become available under “Special cutting”.

9A) With your image open in SignCut and orientated correctly with how you have placed your graphics in your cutter, you can initiate the contour cut. To initiate the ARMS Contour cut, select “Special cutting” from the top menu bar and select the “Saga ARMS Contour cut” option. A dialog box will open which states that you should align the center of the bottom right corner image marker (SignCut refers to the bottom right marker as the ‘first’ marker of the four). Since we have already done this in step 5 above we are ready. As soon as you press the OK button, SignCut will begin the contour cut.

9B) TIP: If your image contains contour lines, 8 registration mark lines and artwork vector art, you will need to select the registration mark lines and the contour lines to send to the cutter before selecting the “Saga ARMS Contour cut”. The easiest way to do this is to make sure your contour lines and registration lines are either on the same layer or are on 2 layers that you can select on the right side-bar menu. Select the two layers by holding down the control key and selecting the layer for the contour path and for the registration marks. Next, select “Saga ARMS Contour cut” and only the contour path and the registration marks will be sent to the cutter. The next method for selecting the contour path and registration marks is to use the SignCut selection tools to select only the contour path and the registration marks.

10) The test file you see below was created in InkScape by drawing straight lines in the shape of an L and then resizing each L to 25mm x 25mm. It can be downloaded from CutterPros at the following link. (Right click on the link and select Save Target As… to save this to a file on your computer) For this test, you can use a plotter pen. Print the test file on a piece of paper, run the ARMS contour cut and the pen will trace out the rectangle and the word TEST.

 

http://support.cutterpros.com/downloads/ProCut-ARMS-By-Saga-ARMS-Test-InkScape-Laser-Mark.svg

 

ProCut ARMS By Saga ARMS Test InkScape Laser Mark Location

ProCut ARMS By Saga ARMS Test InkScape Laser Mark Location

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Usage Of Fonts As Vinyl Cutter Ready Vector Art

Although you can use virtually any artwork to vectorize with InkScape and cut with your vinyl cutter, the extended characters of font sets are perhaps some of the most readily available sources of good quality Vinyl Cutter Ready Vector Art (VCRVA). It is also very inexpensive to purchase fonts. You can get thousands of fonts for around $20.
Vinyl Cutter Ready Vector Art (VCRVA) is artwork that is made from closed loops and has weedable areas. If your artwork is not closed loop vector art then portions of it will not be able to be weeded. Font characters are looped vector art and are weedable.
Looking through the font list available in SignCut, Flexi and in InkScape you will see some of the characters available in the font set. Usually you will see A, B, C, D, etc. but you will not see the extended characters in the font set. A good way to see the extended characters in the font set is to use the Character Map tool in Windows.
Go to your Windows Start menu, Programs, Accessories (or Windows Accessories), System Tools and you will find the Character Map program. The program is charmap.exe so if you can’t find it, search your hard drive for “charmap”
Running this program you will see the fonts listed in the top. Pull down the arrow to change the fonts. Below this is the complete character set. Scroll down with the scroll bar on the right to see all the characters in the font. You will mostly be interested in the True Type fonts which are fonts identified with the TT in front of them.
As you scroll through the font sets you will see a variety of pictures like houses, planes, telephones, etc. You will also see arrows which are very commonly used in signs.
To lift the character from the character map, double click the character and it will appear in the characters to copy list down at the bottom. (You can also press the select button). Then click the copy button next to the Characters to copy: box. The character will now be on your clip board. Next, go to SignCut, Flexi, InkScape or other program and open up a text window using the create text tool. Select Edit and Paste (alternatively you can press CNTL+V as the keyboard shortcut for paste). The character should now be in your artwork or cutting software as text.
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Transfer Tape Selection For Vinyl Cutter Decals And Cut Vinyl Application

There are many types of transfer tape to choose from. When choosing transfer tape, keep in mind the following points:

  1. Tact – Your transfer tape should have a tact that will easily remove the vinyl from the release liner and then easily remove away from the applied vinyl
  2. Transparency – When you are applying your vinyl to your target surface it is highly advantageous to use a transfer tape that allows you to see through to your decal so you can see what you are doing.
  3. Cost – Although transfer tape is very important for aiding in the proper application of your graphics to the target surface, the transfer tape itself will be discarded and in and of itself it is not the end product.
  4. Ability to absorb release agents – Some transfer tape has the ability to absorb a release agent thereby having the ability to be removed with decals still wet. Other transfer tape that is hydrophobic will not allow release agents to penetrate to the adhesion layer and hence, will need to dry before it can be removed if the decal is applied wet.

ProCut Transfer Tape was chosen with a moderate tact and a paper backing so that it can be wet applied and can be removed with a release agent such as the ClearStar Splash fluid. These properties allow this transfer tape to be used with a wide variety of vinyls and allow it to be removed quickly during wet application by releasing the adhesive with the application fluid. Although it is not transparent, this transfer tape is semi-transparent / opaque which will allow you to partially see through during application. The transfer tape adhesion to the vinyl changes color somewhat when it is rolled with a squeegee which allows you to know if you have good adhesion to the tape and where you still need to apply pressure with your squeegee. The transfer tape is also inexpensive as it is a discardable consumable in the application process. During dry application, the transfer tape can be reused a few times. We use the vinyl release liner to store transfer tape for reuse.

If you are doing smaller, pre-cut decals where wet application will not be a consideration it may be better to choose a completely transparent application tape.

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Vinyl Cutter Drag Knife Systems And Blade Offsets

Your vinyl cutter operates based on a drag knife system. This means that the actual cutting that your blade is doing happens behind the centerline of rotation of the blade shaft. Your blade holder restrains the blade with a magnet. As your vinyl cutter pulls the blade center along, the point of cut trails the center by a distance that is dependent on the blade angle but is approximately .008″ (for a Contour or Servo cutter). This means that when the vinyl cutter tries to make a sharp corner, it will need to travel beyond the end of the corner by the blade offset distance and then rotate down to the next vector to continue pulling the blade. Flexi and SignCut do this regularly as a function of the blade offset that you enter into these programs. If you have 0 in for the blade offset, the corners will be rounded. If your blade offset is too high then your corners will have a lip. Getting the blade offset correct for the blade you are using is essential for good quality corners.

Blade penetration into the vinyl is based on force, not on depth and not by the blade holder cover. If your blade holder cover is too close to the vinyl it will scratch up the surface. There should be approximately the width of a credit card from the tip of your blade to the beginning of the blade holder cover. (see pictures)

Below you will find blade offsets as measured for ProCut Contour-Servo series blades as well as CR series blades.

ProCut Vinyl Cutter Blade Offsets For Contour And Servo Systems By Saga CNC

ProCut Vinyl Cutter Blade Offsets For Contour And Servo Systems By Saga CNC

ProCut Vinyl Cutter Blade Offsets For CR Series Blades

ProCut Vinyl Cutter Blade Offsets For CR Series Blades

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What You Need To Know – Important Points For A ProCut Contour Or Servo Vinyl Cutter

Following are some of the important points you should be aware of for your ProCut Contour or Servo vinyl cutter system manufactured by Saga CNC.

  1. Your vinyl cutter should be electrically connected to the stand. A green ground wire is included for this purpose. Make sure this wire is connected under the head of one of the stand fasteners. Connecting the stand to the cutter and then using conductive string on your vinyl is important for the dissipation of static charge, especially in dry environments less than 20% humidity.
  2. Your blade should be placed in the blade holder to protrude from the blade holder shield no more than the width of a credit card. Only the blade portion of the blade needs to be exposed. Do not expose the blade shank unless you are cutting very thick materials.
  3. The Teflon cutting strip is a white piece of Teflon running the length of your vinyl cutter under the tip of the blade. This strip must remain in good condition to allow for good cutting quality and even depth of cutting across the width of the vinyl cutter. If this strip gets damaged you can smooth it over with a spoon, tape over the top or flip it over and use the bottom side.
  4. The roller bar under the pinch rollers is non-continuous. The pinch rollers should be lined up with the white pinch roller marks on the front of the cutter so they are directly over the rollers and not between the rollers. The rollers are knurled and have micro-spikes on them to insure good traction with the release liner.
  5. The pinch rollers should be lowered onto the vinyl with the lever in the back right side of the cutter. Do not over-rotate the lever. Rotating the lever past the point of where the rollers lower onto the vinyl will cause the rollers to raise up again.
  6. The pinch rollers are all individually force adjustable by rotating the adjustment nuts. Without vinyl in place and with the rollers lowered onto the grit rollers on the bottom, the rubber wheels on the roller should not spin. If a wheel spins when it is in the down position then adjust the roller to lower the wheel. Conversely, you will not want to overtighten the rollers as doing so can cause an impression of the knurled roller to come through to the vinyl surface. Enough pressure is needed to insure the micro-spikes engage and penetrate the release liner but not so much pressure that the knurl pattern impresses into the vinyl.
  7. This vinyl cutter has optical limit switches on the left and right sides which will prevent you from cutting an image larger than the width of the machine. If your vinyl cutter tries to go beyond these optical limits then the carriage will be hard limited on either side and will nudge back into the cutting area. This will likely render your cut image non-usable so please be careful not to send images to your vinyl cutter that are larger than the cutting width.
  8. The vinyl cutter has a test button. This test button will create a triangle inside a square which is about 1 inch by 1 inch. Always test your vinyl with the test button. Weed the square. If the square weeds easily then remove the triangle. There should be a slight impression in the release liner from the blade. The release liner should not be cut through. The objective is to completely cut through the vinyl layer while just penetrating the release liner but not cutting through the release liner. Adjust your force settings until you achieve this result. Since the blade offset cannot be adjusted on the cutter directly, depending on the blade you are using the corners may or may not be sharp.
  9. If you experience a phenomena sometimes referred to as ‘knife sticking’ or ‘bunching’ this is due to too much force on your blade and perhaps too sharp of a blade angle. This is when your vinyl doesn’t slide under the blade and ‘bunches’ between your blade and the rollers. This usually occurs with more rigid substrates such as the release liner for heat transfer material. If the force is too high or the blade too sharp the blade will stick into the release liner and will not slide properly. If this occurs, reduce your cutting force. Decreasing the blade angle to a smaller (duller) angle will help resolve this as well.
  10. When the vinyl cutter displays Speed and Force settings in the LCD screen this indicates that the cutter is in online mode and ready to listen to your computer for commands. In online mode, you can change the force and speed using the speed and force buttons. By pressing the offline button, you can take the vinyl cutter offline. The speed and force buttons will now become the arrow keys which will manually move your carriage left and right and roll your vinyl front to back.
  11. When you take the vinyl cutter offline and move the carriage and put the vinyl cutter back on line by pressing the online button the carriage will automatically move back to the original home position. If you want to reset the home position to the new carriage position that you have moved the cutter to, press the Enter button. This will put the vinyl cutter back online and re-zero the carriage position.
  12. The Servo and Contour vinyl cutter systems have a laser alignment feature. This feature is semi-manual. Pressing the laser button will turn on and off the laser dot.
  13. For a PC connection, simply plug the unit into a USB port. In Flexi Starter, use the USB_Printer_# (where # is the port number, usually the highest number if you just connected your cutter). In SignCut, connect to USB00# where # is the USB port number.
  14. For alignment, it is important to roll out a substantial distance to make sure you are lined up within your margins over the length of the expected cut distance. If you expect to cut a 20 foot long image, roll out 20 feet of vinyl to make sure your vinyl will not move left to right more than about 1/4″-1/2″. If it moves more than this, adjust the angle of the vinyl on the vinyl cutter slightly and roll out the vinyl again.
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Bigg Dawgg Graffix Racing Decal Cut On A ProCut Contour 4800 Using InkScape And Flexi Starter

As a continuation of the post “Font Cleanup Before Sending Artwork To A Vinyl Cutter“, Dan submitted the final result of his race car graphics for Bigg Dawgg Graffix. See picture below. This was produced with a Contour 4800 using InkScape for graphics generation and Flexi Starter 10 for sending the graphics to the cutter. This is an excellent example of the effect one can achieve with layering as it is very well executed with this example. Vinyl color selection is important to achieve the bright contrast that Dan has with this decal.

Example of Layered Vinyl Using a ProCut Contour 4800, Flexi Starter and InkScape

Example of Layered Vinyl Using a ProCut Contour 4800, Flexi Starter and InkScape

If you need assistance generating layered graphics as depicted above, please contact us at http://www.CutterPros.com

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