True Size Scaling in DragonCut

1) Open DragonCut
2) Go to “Tools” on the top menu, select “Plugins & Modules”, select “Vinyl Spooler…”
3) In the Vinyl Spooler, select “Cutter” from the top menu bar, select “Configure Cutter”
4) Select “Units” on the left side bar menu
5) Expand Units and Device Units per Inch and Device Units per mm (see picture)

6) See the numbers 40 and 40 for mm (or 1016 and 1016 for inches)? This is the number of motor pulses per mm that is defined for the Saga cutters. By default, it should be 40 and 40 for mm. Cutting a 1” x 2” rectangle should come out true size.
7) If we change these numbers from 40 and 40 to 80 and 80 (the 1016 x 1016 will automatically adjust to 2032 x 2032 when we do this) and resend the same 1” x 2” rectangle, it will come out to 2” x 4” true size.
8) So, if your cut is coming out too small, adjust these numbers upwards. If your cut is coming out too large, then adjust these numbers downwards. The change should be in direct proportion.
9) Example 1, if your 1” x 2” box is coming out .5” x 1” true size, then double these numbers from 40×40 to 80×80.
10) Example 2, if your 1” x 2” box is coming out 2” x 4” true size, then halve these numbers from 40×40 to 20×20.
11) You can also change the X different from the Y if the scaling is non-proportional.
12) For reference, the X controls along the length of the vinyl and the Y controls along the width of the cutter.

Posted in DragonCut, Saga, Vinyl Cutting Tutorials Tips And Tricks | Leave a comment

Vinyl Cutting Rubber Sand Mask Or Paint Mask

For best results when cutting rubber mask with a vinyl cutter, follow these guidelines:

1) Make sure the cutter is cutting the rubbery side of the material. One side is shiny and slippery, one side is dull and rubbery. Always cut the dull rubbery side up. The shiny slippery side is the release liner.
2) Make sure the blade holder is biased up in the carriage if needed to allow for additional cutting clearance. For cutting rubber mask material you must either use the rubber O ring or manually bias the blade holder up with your fingers before tightening it down so it is touching the upper flange on the blade holder and not resting on the bottom for Saga and Precision cutters. This will ensure proper clearance for the blade holder shroud so it does not come in contact with the material top surface.
3) Make sure the blade extends from the blade holder almost 1/16″ = .0625”. This is to ensure that we have enough blade height available to cut through the material while not hitting the shroud of the blade holder. The material is .035” thick with a .007″ thick release liner. The blade tip should not be touching the material when the cutter isn’t in the down position cutting. If the blade tip is scratching the material when traveling over it then it is extended a little too far.
4) Use a 60° blade. This is the blue cap blade.
5) Use a force of 250 g – 300 g and a speed of about 108 mm/s for a 45° blade. This higher force is needed to cut the rubber mask material. Below are some minimum forces measured to cut through rubber mask with the Precision Servo cutter. Servo cutters are highly recommended for cutting rubber mask material.
a. 258 g using a 45° standard blade
b. 231 g using a 60° standard blade
c. 213 g using a 45° industrial blade
d. 200 g using a 60° industrial blade
6) Using too much force will cause the blade to jam in the release liner and not slide. We need just the right amount of force. The ideal force is the force needed to fully cut through the material layer and just barely nick into the release liner. The best force would be the force closest to the minimums as possible.
7) Use roller positions 1, 2, 3 and 4 for 15″ mask material and center the material over these three rollers best you can. The spool of material will be right against the roller bearing on the right side of the stand roller so it won’t be perfectly centered on a 720 Precision unit, it will be to the left of center just a little. For a standard 720 Saga unit you can get it centered. For 24″ wide material use the center of the cutter. We highly recommend that you cut the material to the length being used. This will allow the material to hang freely in the front and back of the cutter thereby reducing side loads caused by spooling off of the roll. We also recommend removing the basket.
8) Use firm roller pressure. The rollers will leave a slight impression on the material but it is OK. It is also important that the roller pressure be uniform. To achieve uniform pressure, either start at full pressure and release the same amount of pressure from each roller by rotating the thumb screws the same amount or start from minimum pressure and add the same pressure on each roller by rotating the thumb screw the same amount. Uneven roller pressure can cause your material to not track correctly causing text and graphics to move out of alignment.
9) When the material is not being cut do not leave the rollers in the down position. When you are not cutting and leave the cutter for a duration of only 15 minutes or so make sure to lift the rollers. This is due to the tendency of the rubber material to compresses and take a set under the roller pressure causing an impression in the rubber mask.
10) If your rubber mask material unwinds from the roller by itself contact support to obtain friction bands for your roller bar for the Precision series cutters.
11) Manually roll out enough material to cover the distance in your run. This will reduce force against the drive rollers and improve the tracking of your cutter. Cut the vinyl to the length needed for the graphic.
12) For the best results, rotate the vinyl in the cutter if you are using 15″ material with a 24″ (or wider) cutter. If you are using a 24″ cutter, cut the 15″ wide mask to 26″ long and place it lengthwise across the width of the cutter. This will align the longer lengthwise cuts on the material to be perpendicular to the rollers and will allow for much better tracking. This will limit your cutting size to 13″ x 24″ if you are using 15″ material. You can tile your graphic and piece it together after cutting if your graphic is larger than this size.
13) Grip is the ability of your vinyl cutter to bite into the release liner (or carrier material) repeatedly and track back along the bite marks accurately. Some material release liners such as with rubber mask are very hard and give substantial resistance to the bite from your knurled rollers. To enhance the grip of your cutter to the release liner we recommend adding a layer of masking tape to the back portion of the material to aid in grip for longer runs. Adding the masking tape to the release liner gives your cutter a softer material to bite into which substantially enhances the ability of the cutter to track accurately. The tape should only be placed along the length in the region that will line up with the knurled rollers. You can use any type of masking tape such as blue painter’s tape. See picture below as an example:

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Preparing Boat Surfaces For Application Of Vinyl

The first step for preparing boat surfaces for the application of vinyl is cleaning.

IPA (isopropyl alcohol) is generally recommended unless the substrate manufacturer states that there is an incompatibility. Caution: many cleaning agents can leave a residue that either prevents vinyl adhesion or attacks the vinyl adhesive, such as Windex® and other glass or surface cleaners, Rapid Prep®, and degreasers.

Surface temperatures should be between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit before attempting the installation. As a general rule, if the surface is hot to the touch it’s over 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Adhesive becomes brittle when it gets too cold and gummy when it gets too hot. Applications outside the recommended range of 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit reduce the adhesives’ ability to perform.

Make sure you SUPER clean the areas you are going to be applying to. On fiberglass, a firm alcohol cleaning with a clean rag to remove any wax/lime/salt is all you’ll need.

Wipe it several times just to make sure it is very clean.

Optional, from others that have applied graphics to boats: Make sure the graphics are all above the waterline while the boat is at rest fully loaded in the water & use a prep like 3M Primer 94 to prepare the surface for the vinyl (apply a very thin film of it and allow 15 minutes to tack up). Follow up with an edge sealer like 3M Edge Sealer 3950. All you want to do is make sure water does not get under the leading edge of the vinyl and cause it to lose adhesion.

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Changing The Carriage On A Saga Standard Stepper Or Servo Vinyl Cutter

1) Remove plug from vinyl cutter (Always the first step when servicing your cutter)

2) Remove endcaps (four screws on inside plates)

3) Remove the top cover plate (carefully so you don’t pinch the wires on the right side). It is best to remove it, rotate it 90° to the cutter and lay it on the right side. Be very careful not to damage the wires that connect through to the LCD display.

4) Loosen the drive belt by loosening the fastener on right side.

5) Loosen or remove the front fastener of the carriage cover plate. This fastener locks the carriage in place. When it is removed, the carriage can be pushed down and tilted out. You can also remove the carriage cover plate by removing the fastener on the left side of the carriage as well however, it is not necessary to remove the cover.

6) Push down on carriage and rotate the bottom wheels off the track. Do this very carefully so you don’t pivot the carriage too much. If you rotate the carriage too much you will damage / bend the optic sensors attached to the PCB on the top of the carriage. You may want to remove the small PCB on the top first. If you do, the nuts are under the PCB and they are very difficult to get to so you will need a small screw driver and needle nose pliers. Try not to lose the nuts or the small fasteners in the process.

7) Once the carriage has been tilted off the rail, it will be free from the cutter. Lift it up to clear the optic sensors from the rail without damaging them.

8) Unfasten the four wire connections from the carriage to the carriage board on the top (unless your new carriage has another sensor board already attached, you will likely need to reuse this one. There may be some hot glue on the wires which can be removed by a pair of pliers or by pulling it off with our fingers.

9) Extremely important – Make sure you note the sequence of red / black and solenoid / laser connections. When you reconnect them, they must be in the same sequence. Switching + and – on the solenoid wires will fry the main motherboard if you power it on with the wires reversed. (frying the motherboard with the leads reversed is practically guaranteed) If you look at the sensor board carefully you will see little +/- marks on it. The collars on the little wires should be red + and black – to correspond.

10) Remove the sensor board from the top of the carriage bracket. It is much easier now with the carriage separated from the cutter.

11) On the back of the carriage ther are fasteners that hold the belt to the carriage. With enough slack in the belt, you can loosen those fasteners enough so that the belt clips unhook from the heads of the fasteners (no need to completely remove the fasteners).

12) Reverse the process

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Creation CR630 / CR1200 Vinyl Cutter Setup

The Creation CR630 and CR1200 vinyl cutters are very similar. The CR630 is a 24″ cutter while the CR1200 is a 48″ cutter. Aside from the difference in length, the CR1200 also has an extra stepper motor to drive the sand roller and it has some additional pinch rollers.

There are 3 places where we need to verify setting so that your cutter communicates properly. These 3 places are the cutter itself, the device manager and in the cutting program.

Step 1 – It is always a good idea to start by resetting the cutter. This will purge anything in RAM. To reset the cutter, disconnect it from the computer, plug it in and turn it on. Next, press the 2 red carriage limit switch buttons on the inside walls simultaneously 3 times. This will reset the cutter. Turn the cutter off and on.

Step 2 – Take your cutter offline by pressing the Online button. Next, press the mode button until you get to the baud rate. Make sure the baud rate is set to 9600 and not 19200. If it is at 19200, change it to 9600 with the + button. You will need to press the mode button again to get back to the X,Y position screen so you can put the cutter back online.

Step 3 – The first step in connecting your cutter to your computer is to open device manager. Go to the control panel. For Windows XP, Device Manager is a tab in the System program. For Windows Vista, 7, 8, etc. Device Manager is its own program in the Control Panel. When you first open Control Panel, if your settings are grouped by Category you will find the Device Manager under the “Hardware and Sound” group at the top under “Devices and Printers”. If your Control Panel is being viewed by Icons then it will be listed alphabetically. Open the device manager. With the device manager open, you will see a list of everything that is connected to your computer.

Step 4 – With the device manager open and the cutter powered on, plug the cutter into your computer. Your computer will make the device connection sound and may search for device drivers. The cutter uses an FTDI chipset so the computer should install the FTDI chipset driver. If your computer does not react at all to the cutter being plugged in, there may be a block in the connection.

  1. Try a different USB port on your computer (try all of them if necessary)
  2. Try a different printer cable (any standard USB printer cable will work, borrow one from another printer if needed).
  3. It is also possible that the USB port on the cutter itself has failed. USB ports are the number one service item for vinyl cutters.
  4. It is possible the internal wiring from the USB port to the motherboard has failed.

If your computer automatically installs an FTDI driver (some Windows 7 and Windows 8 systems will do this successfully) then proceed to use it. The FTDI driver will show up as a COM port under Ports (COM & LPT). In some instances, it may be necessary to use an older version of the FTDI driver. If your cutter has incomplete cutting then rolling back to a prior FTDI driver is a good first step to resolve the issue.

If your computer doesn’t install a driver automatically then your cutter will show up as an Unknown Device or possibly some other device. You will see the new device show up in the device manager listing. If you can’t tell which one it is, unplug the cutter from the computer and wait for device manager to update, the device attached to the cutter will disappear. Plug it back into the computer and the device will reappear. Do this as many times as needed until you find the cutter device.

If your cutter is an unknown device, you will need to install an FTDI driver. You can download the drivers from the CutterPros support page here. There are a couple to choose from depending on your operating system.

The drivers are in a compressed folder. Save the file to your downloads or to the desktop. After the file is saved, extract the drivers to a regular folder on your desktop.

Right click on the unknown device in device manager and select “Properties”

Next, click on the “Driver” tab.

Next, click on the “Update Driver…” button.

Select “Browse my computer for driver software”

Select “Let me poick from a list of device drivers on my computer”

Select “Have Disk…” on the bottom right

Select “Browse…”

Navigate to where you saved the decompressed folder.

Select “ftdiport.inf” from the decompressed folder.

Select “Open”

Select “OK”

Select “Next”

The driver software will be installed to the cutter device.

Step 5 - Now that you have a device driver installed for the cutter and the cutter shows up as a COM port under the COM & LPT ports (expand the menu tree if needed to see the COM ports) we will need to update the settings. Right click on the COM port which is your cutter. Select “Properties” and then select the “Port Settings” tab. The port settings should be as follows:

Bits per second: 9600

Data bits: 8

Parity: None

Stop Bits: 1

Flow control: Hardware

Change the settings as needed to match above. Usually, all you will need to update is the Flow control setting.














Next click on the “Advanced…” button.

You can change the COM port at the top if you wish. COM ports 1 to 4 are preferred for older versions of some programs that can’t access higher port numbers.

Set the following which are more conservative than the defaults:

Receive (bytes): 64

Transmit (bytes): 64

Latency Timer (msec): 1

Serial Enumerator should be checked, the rest of the settings should not be checked.

Selective Suspend Idle Timeout (secs): 5

Then click “OK”

Click “OK” again.

Now, you should be back in device manager. Right click on the COM port for your cutter to verify the settings.

Select “Properties”

Select “Port Settings”

Verify the settings above as 9600/8/none/1/Hardware

Sometimes, the Hardware setting reverts back to the prior setting. If it did, change it back to Hardware again.

Click “OK”.

Verify the settings again if needed. If you check the settings and they remain as 9600/8/none/1/Hardware then the system has changed them.

At this point, it is usually a good idea to restart the computer and then go back into device manager and check the settings. Turn the cutter off and on and then leave the cutter connected and turned on for the restart. This is especially true if you changed the COM port number.

Step 6 – Open your cutting program. For instance, SignCut Pro or Flexi Starter.








In SignCut Pro, at the middle or top right of the menu bar is a button for Cutter. Select this.

Manufacturer: Cutter Pros (or choose ProCut or Creation depending on your version of SignCut)

Cutter: ProCut CR630 (or ProCut CR1200 or CR630 or CR1200)

Output Device / Port: COM? – This must be the COM port that your cutter is assigned to. COM1, COM2, etc.

Do not click the Use Windows serial setting button

Baud: 9600

Parity: NON

Databits: 8

Stopbits: 1

Handshake: Hardware (RTS/CTS)

Blade Offset: .0118″ is the default. You can adjust this if needed. If your corners are rounded, the offset is too low. If your corners have little hangnails on them the offset is too high. If your corners are nice and sharp then the setting is correct. .0100″ – .0130″ is a good range to work within.

Use spooler: Unchecked

Enable feed dialog after cutting: N/A

Optimize datastream: Unchecked

Force movement: Unchecked

Curve resolution: 100

Rotate: 90 deg

RTS and CTS should be checked

DTR and DSR should NOT be checked

Click “OK”

Click the Cut icon (Icon that looks like a pair of scissors)

Remove your blade holder from the carriage.

Select “Testcut” from the bottom right corner

The cutter should connect and cut the test cut path.

Flexi Starter is very similar except you will need to go into Production Manager to setup the cutter. Use the same settings as outlined above.

If you are unsuccessful in connecting, contact us on live chat at

Special Notes:

If you have installed a new motherboard, make sure that left / right and up / down arrows move the carriage left and right and up and down respectively. If they are reversed, you will need to rotate the connector key / shield on the motherboard. We have had some instances where motherboard motor connections were mis-oriented.

If your cutter is not responding to the computer, verify that the carriage is not against one of the red limit switch buttons on the left or right side. The carriage can start about 1″ or so away from the right side wall. If the carriage is touching one of the red buttons it will cause the cutter to not communicate with the computer. If this happens, turn the cutter off, slowly move the carriage to a start position and turn it back on. It is very important to move it slowly as by moving the carriage you are generating a reverse current through the motor windings. Moving the carriage by hand very quickly can damage your motherboard.

If your cutter is cutting the image rotated, it is possible that you may have a CT-630 or CT-1200 motherboard installed in your unit. If this is the case, select the CT-630 or CT-1200 cutter from the driver list instead of the CR-630 or CR-1200 driver and your cutter should cut in the correct orientation.

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CutterPros Newsletter Volume 2

The big news this month is our participation at the Shanghai show in the Saga booth. Pictures are posted on the Saga blog site.

Saga and Future Corporation (makers of DragonCut) have been working very hard on the newest version of the ARMS system. A next generation ARMS system running DragonCut version 5 can contour cut decals to within ±.12 mm over 5 meters. Current generation ARMS and DragonCut version 4 is fine for 24” cutters and larger cutters at 1 – 2 m in length. It is OK beyond this but not as optimal as version 5 systems are. We retraced the same printed decals about 60 times and the pen had perfect retracing every time. There really is no limit to the length of the decal roll as we use interim registration marks (multi-marks) to find the images every 8” or so. The Saga-DragonCut system can now ARMS cut decals comparable to a Graphtec or Roland which can cost upwards of $7k. If you currently have an ARMS system running version 4 of DragonCut and would like to upgrade to version 5 you will need a new carriage with an upgraded sensor and a new motherboard. Let us know if you would like to upgrade your system. The Saga – DragonCut ARMS system is by far the best automatic contour cutting we have seen. Due to this enhanced performance we will likely see the prices of the Saga systems increase substantially in the near future.

At the show Saga exhibited their latest label cutter system with an automatic weeder along with a Saga color laser label printer. The system will retail for approximately $19k and can print 9 meters of labels per minute on 8.5” label stock. The cutter can process approximately .4 meters per minute so you can add additional label cutters to balance flow and yield if necessary. If you have any interest in this system please contact me for availability.

We did lots of ImageCut decals of dragons and other pictures at the show which generated substantial interest and enthusiasm in DragonCut and Saga. ImageCut can take any photograph and through changing strip width cuts can recreate it in vinyl. The photo can be a multicolor picture of anything and the reproduction is very good and gets better with thinner strip widths. If you are doing flea markets, swap meets, etc. or if you are just a signshop advertising sign work and are not doing ImageCut images you are missing a big opportunity. ImageCut is in DragonCut and in some versions of Vinyl Master. See the show pictures for examples.

Saga also exhibited the new mini cutters however, they are still at the prototype stage and are in development. We expect the mini cutters to be available early Q4 (just in time for the holidays).

Saga CNC is now actively recruiting commission driven independent sales agents and other sign making equipment supply resellers to participate in the sales and promotion of Saga products in the US. If you or someone you know has any interest in promoting and reselling Saga products please contact us. There are no inventory or carrying requirements. Saga is one of the easiest vinyl cutter companies to distribute and resell for. Saga products are sign-shop grade and compare well with Graphtec and Roland. Alternatively, if you provide a referral to Saga for an equipment sale, Saga will grant a commission on the sale.

We have added several more products over the past months. (Total products available through CutterPros are approximately 38,000 now).
One of the more important additions to the site is we have added a financing option for orders of $5k or more. For orders less than $5k, PayPal has a bill me later option which will let you spread costs out over time.
We have added Royal Sovereign LED signs. There are several versions available.
We have significantly expanded the availability of Griff Decorative Films vinyl. Many more colors and types are now available to choose from.
We are currently working on the release of the complete line of Universal Products striping. Usually, pin striping is targeted for cars, boats, campers and the automotive industry. Keep in mind however, that solid stripe is just plain vinyl cut down to a smaller width roll. Usually, vinyl cut below 15” is referred to as solid stripe. If you have a small width cutter however such as a 12” or 8” and would like a continuous roll to feed to it then you can get 12” or 8” solid stripe to run through your hobby cutter. We expect to have the Universal Products striping products released by mid-month.

We would like to encourage our customers to mention us in public forums. To encourage this, we will grant a $5 coupon for mentioning us in a public forum and a $10 coupon if you post a link back to the or web site. Simply call or email us with a link to the information and we will send you a coupon. (limit one coupon per account)

We are trying to put more emphasis on social media connections going forward so please consider clicking on our Facebook, Twitter and Google +1 buttons on our home page at

Here are some links to the items discussed above:

Saga CNC Shanghai 2014:
Video of Contour Cutting with DragonCut and a Saga Servo vinyl cutter:
Griff Vinyl:
Royal Sovereign LED signs:
Financing for $5k+:
Universal Products (available mid-month):

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First CutterPros Customer Communication

Historically, CutterPros has not sent out very many customer communication emails. We are looking to change this and to attempt to send out informational emails once a month with company updates to stay in touch with our customers.

We have added a lot of products over the past several months. (Total products on CutterPros are approximately 34,000 now) Several products are offered at extremely competitive pricing including 15″ ThermoFlex Plus by Specialty Materials, Griff Decorative Vinyl by Griff, Oracal 651 by Oracal. We have had our 4 year ProCut vinyl for quite some time. Recently, we added a 5 year ProCut calendared vinyl as well which cuts and weeds even better than the 4 year vinyl. Due to customer requests, we have also added Oracal 631 in cut down sizes. As a reminder, ProCut Calendared vinyl and Oracal 651 are good for outdoor use. Oracal 631 has a removable adhesive that is very good for indoor use on walls. Do not use Oracal 631 outside or on cars.

Our trade-in program remains very popular. We will continue to take CR series units as trade ins for Saga units. CR series or Saga series units can be traded in on a cutter of your choice.
For the Saga units, we have also introduced the Saga challenge which allows you to trade in your Saga for a Graphtec unit within the first month if you are unhappy with your Saga unit for any reason. To date, nobody has decided to give up their Saga for a Graphtec…

We introduced DragonCut software in December of 2013. DragonCut is by far the best vinyl cutting software we have seen to date. It includes internal vectorization and ImageCut which can take a JPEG and cut an image of it directly out of vinyl without vectorization. ImageCut images are very popular and profitable at Flea Markets and Swap Meets. DragonCut works on Saga units only. For demonstrations of DragonCut please visit and watch the main video and all the training videos. We expect the DragonCut cutting technology to be ported to Vinyl Master by year end. Until then, DragonCut will have better cutting technology than Vinyl Master.

We have also introduced a trade-up program for CutterPros and Ricoma heat presses. You can trade these presses in for a GeoKnight or a Stahls press. This program is similar to our vinyl cutter trade-up program where CutterPros will pay return shipping on your trade-in press in addition to the credit for the new press.

I would also like to remind everyone that we are available for support after hours and on weekends. Usually from 6PM-9PM M-F and from 10AM-5PM Saturday and Sunday. The best way to contact us is through live chat or through an email to Please contact us if you would like assistance.

I also urge all of you to read all of our posts on our technical blog. Taken together, they answer most questions posed by our customers. Much of the information is relevant to all vinyl cutting, not just Saga and Creation vinyl cutters.

Here are some links to the items discussed above:

ThermoFlex Plus:
Griff Vinyl:
Oracal 651:
Oracal 631:
5 yr and 4 yr ProCut Calendared Vinyl:
Vinyl Cutter Trade In Program:
CutterPros Heat Press Trade In Program:
Ricoma Heat Press Trade In Program:

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Contour Cutter Laser Calibration Using Flexi Starter

An easy way to calibrate the offset coefficients for your cutter is to use the cutter laser to self-measure the distance from a contour loop to a geometry loop. Following is the procedure:

  1. Do not remove the paper from the cutter during this process. This way, we can maintain orthagonality while we measure the laser offset.
  2. Create a 1″ x 1″ square in Flexi Starter using the rectangle tool (fourth down on the left menu bar). In the Design Central pop up menu, set the length and width to 1″ x 1″ and set the corners to be square (Regular).
  3. Create a contour path around that square with an offset of 0 so the contour loop is coincident with the original geometry square. Go to Effects at the top, select Contour Cut… In the design central window, set the offset to 0 and select the green checkmark.
  4. Create your 4 registration marks. With the contour in place, go to Effects, select Contour Cut Marks…  Select 4 point in Design Central and press the green check mark.
  5. Place a pen and paper in your vinyl cutter. Zero the pen near the middle of the paper and to the front. The contour loop will plot above and to the right of the geometry loop so we will want space above and to the right.
  6. Plot the original 1″ x 1″ square and the registration marks using the cut command.
  7. Move the laser so it is below and to the right of the first registration mark. Flexi will not allow negative numbers to be used during the registration process. Rezero the origin by selecting the Enter button on the cutter.
  8. Run the contour cut using the Contour Cut button (just to the right of the cut button on the top menu bar). The Cut Contour window will pop up.
  9. Under the cutter is a button called Properties… on the Cut Contour pop up window, select this tab. The third tab to the right is the Cut tab in the Default Job Properties pop up window, select the Cut tab. On the Cut tab you will find the Cutter Options… button on the bottom, select this. You will see the Before Job window. The Offset X and Offset Y is where the laser offsets will go. Select both boxes and put in 0 and 0 for the X and Y offsets. Select the Apply button. Close the Before Job window and the Default Job Properties window.
  10. Select Send from the Cut Contour screen, this will allow us to send the contour cut to the cutter. Select the Interactive alignment (Manual) options from the Alignment pop up window. Select OK. The Interactive alignment window will pop up. Using the arrows on your keyboard move the laser to the first registration mark. NOTE, IT IS VERY HELPFUL TO HAVE A REMOTE KEYBOARD OR TO HAVE YOUR KEYBOARD NEAR YOUR CUTTER WHEN DOING THIS. Select OK when complete. Do the same for positions 2, 3 and 4.
  11. A pop up box will say Please put knife back in cutter and click OK to start cutting. Select OK and the contour cut will be executed.
  12. The contour cut will be up and to the right of the original square. The distance between these two squares is equal to the distance between the laser and the cutting point.
  13. Place the laser back in the bottom right corner again and re-zero the cutter by pressing the enter button.
  14. Send the contour cut again.
  15. Select Interactive alignment (Manual) again.
  16. Using the keyboard arrows, move the laser to the top left corner of the original square.
  17. Record the X, Y values from the Interactive Alignment screen. For instance, 1.614 inch x 1.208 inch.
  18. Using the keyboard arrows, move the laser to the top left corner of the contour cut square.
  19. Record the X, Y values from the Interactive Alignment screen. For instance, 2.604 inch x .482 inch.
  20. Now, subtract the X and Y values from each other. For instance: 1.614-2.604 = -0.99″ for X and 1.208-.482 = .726″ for Y.
  21. These are the values for your cutter laser offsets. Flexi will want these numbers entered in mm, not inches so we should convert the value. For instance: -.99*25.4 mm/inch = -25.15 mm for X. .726*25.4 mm/inch = 18.44 mm for Y.
  22. Cancel out of this contour cut.
  23. Return to Properties, Default Job Properties, Cut tab, Cutter Options… Select the Offset X and Offset Y boxes and enter your offsets for the X and Y values. For instance, -25.15 and 18.44 in this example (use the values you calculated for your cutter). Click Apply. Note, the X value will always be negative and the Y value will always be positive. The positive X direction is left as you face the cutter and the positive Y direction is toward the back of the cutter as you face it. Although your values will be slightly different than the ones presented in this example, they should be very close to these values.
  24. Select done to close out of the Contour Cut screen.
  25. Send the contour cut again.
  26. Select the second tab of the options screen. On this tab you will see Drawing Colors and there will be a color called CutContour. Double click on this color.
  27. The settings pop up box will display. Select the Offset X and Offset Y checkboxes and enter your offset coordinates again. Select Apply and OK to close the box.
  28. Select Send in the bottom right and run through the contour cut alignment process making sure your carriage starts from the zero in the lower right corner. (This is necessary as Flexi will not accept negative values from the alignment process).
  29. Your contour cut should be very close if not directly on top of the original square.
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ProCut Contour Or Servo Vinyl Cutter Setup Flexi Starter (PC)

1) You will receive a USB Dongle with Flexi Starter. Do not plug this into the computer until you have installed Flexi Starter first.

2) You will receive a disk that contains Flexi Starter. This disk will also have a long license code attached to it. Flexi Starter can also be downloaded from the CutterPros tech support page here in section H:

3) Insert the Flexi Starter disk and open it with Windows File Explorer.

  1. Navigate to the “Autorun” file and launch the Flexi installation.
  2. Flexi will take a long time to install, especially on older or slower computers.
  3. If you have mistakenly plugged the driver into a USB port please remove it.
  4. Welcome to the InstallShield Wizard for Flexi Starter (click Next)
  5. Accept License Agreement (Click Next)
  6. Accept default file location (Click Next)
  7. Accept default files to install (click Next)
  8. Accept default folder name (click Next)
  9. Installation proceeds and shows Setup Status screen… (wait for completion)
  10. The Setup Status will then show configuration of the installation… (wait for completion)
  11. Screen will show if the USB dongle is connected to the computer, please remove it now, so that the dongle driver can be installed. (remove the dongle if you plugged it in, select OK)
  12. Setup Status shows configuration screen and dongle driver installation… (wait for completion)
  13. Installation screen will disappear, your computer won’t show anything but installation is still completing in the background, please wait…. (wait for completion, this may take a little while)
  14. Eventually, the Install manager screen will pop up. Input your password into the password box. Your user number (6 digit code which should match with the 6 digit code on the side of your dongle) will display and the Product will populate. (Select Done)
  15. Install manager will allow you to install to desktop and to clear preferences. (select OK)
  16. Install manager will process… (wait for completion, do not press Done)
  17. When this is complete, a green installation bar on a white background will display (wait for completion)
  18. Eventually, the green bar will disappear, nothing will display on the computer, Flexi is finishing installation in the background. Please wait… (wait for completion, this may take a little while)
  19. Eventually, the install shield wizard will show a complete screen. You are done! Click Finish.

We recommend you restart your computer.

Plug in your dongle. The Safenet Drivers will install when they detect the dongle.

Run Flexi Starter.

Note, we have noticed that some Bluetooth drivers can interfere with the Safenet Dongle Driver. If your dongle is not recognized, disable your Bluetooth driver and try running Flexi again.

Note, we have noticed that some anti-virus programs and firewalls can interfere with Flexi and the install process. If this happens, please disable your virus protection and try again.

Note, we have noticed that sometimes, the dongle driver gets overwritten with Windows default drivers and Flexi cannot find the dongle. If this occurs, follow these steps to reinstall the Safenet Driver:

  1. Download the Safenet Sentinel Protection Installer driver file using link below (first selection):
  3. Remove the key from the computer
  4. Run installation file
  5. Plug the key back to the computer and start the software.

Note, in the event you need to reinstall Flexi, please go to Add / Remove programs and uninstall using this tool. Uninstall both Flexi Starter and the Safenet Driver from the Program list. Reboot after uninstall and when asked, click yes to delete / remove user settings.

When you go to cut something, Production Manager will open up. You will need to select your cutter. The communication port will be USB_Printer_# where # is a number. Usually it is 0 if you don’t have any other USB Printers on your system. If you have another USB Printer, the port may be USB_Printer_1 or perhaps another number. Usually, start with the highest numbered printer first. Send a test cut without a blade holder installed in the
carriage. If your cutter responds, you are connected. If your cutter doesn’t respond, change to another USB_Printer_# port number.

Finishing Up

With your software installed, and your cutter setup on its stand and connected to your computer, we highly recommend you call us at 888-828-8776 to schedule your training session. Training sessions take approximately 1 to 2 hours and can cover SignCut, Flexi, InkScape (text on path, offsets, vectorization), contour cutting and your cutter functionality. Training is free and included for the life of the cutter regardless of the
warranty or cutter purchased.

Posted in Flexi, Vinyl Cutting Tutorials Tips And Tricks | Leave a comment

ProCut Contour Or Servo Vinyl Cutter Setup SignCut Pro (Mac or PC)

1) Download the latest version of SignCut from:

  2. Select Downloads from the top menu
  4. Open the “+” to see the files and select Windows
    or Mac version.
  5. TIP: You can download the plugins for InkScape,
    Corel Draw and Illustrator here as well. Do this after you have installed
    SignCut Pro

2) Allow your explorer to run (install) the software

  1. Alternatively you may save this file to your computer and install it after it has been copied to your hard drive. This can be done by selecting save to disk.

3) Agree to the license terms

4) Accept the default directory and install

5) Select yes to InkScape if you wish to install InkScape. InkScape is a free graphics  program capable of bitmap vectorization somewhat similar to Corel Draw and Adobe Illustrator.

  1. TIP: SignCut may not install the latest copy of InkScape. We recommend you go to to download and install the latest stable version directly from the InkScape web site.
  2. Accept all the defaults to install InkScape when the InkScape pop-up installation window appears.

6) If you purchased a permanent license of SignCut and have a dongle key (USB thumb drive), plug it in now.

7) Open SignCut

8) SignCut will ask you for your registration code.

  1. If you purchased your cutter with a 1 year license, you will receive a bundle code on a bright yellow or green 8.5×11 sheet of paper included with your cutter. It may be in the small box inside the cutter box or included in the documentation packet. It will say “Document of Value” at the top and contain a bundle code (this is NOT the registration code). Follow the instructions on this sheet of paper to go to
    This will allow you to register your bundle code. You will then receive the actual SignCut 1 year license code through your email and listed on the registration screen. This process takes a couple minutes and the codes are issued right away. Copy the registration code and save it in notepad or other editor program.
  2. If you purchased a dongle, CutterPros will register your license with SignCut. Depending on timing, your activation code will either be with the dongle or it will be emailed to you. Enter this code into SignCut to activate the dongle license.

9) Once registered, you will need to select your cutter and communication port. This is done by selecting the Cutter button at the top right-center of the screen. Select the manufacturer, your cutter and the port.

  1. Manufacturer – Saga
  2. Cutter –
    1. ProCut Contour 2400 – Saga 720I
    2. ProCut Contour 4800 – Saga 1350I
    3. ProCut Servo 2400 – Saga 720II
    4. ProCut Servo 4800 – Saga 1350II
    5. ProCut Servo 6400 – Saga 1750II
  3. Port – USB00# where # is the USB port number of your cutter. (For MAC, this will be Saga USB)
  4. The communication settings will grey out because this is a direct connection.

10)  Remove your blade holder from the carriage (the blade holder is the metal tube in the carriage that holds the blade). This can be done by unscrewing the thumb screw and pulling the blade holder up and out of the carriage.

11)  In SignCut, select the text button on the left side of the screen. Type an X in the text box and say OK. SignCut will display an X on the screen.

12) Select the cut icon on the left side of the screen

13)   The cut / plot pop up window will display

14)   Select to “Cut out” in the bottom left corner to send a test cut to your cutter.

15)  Your cutter should move around as if it were cutting the X.

16)   Your cutter is now communicating with SignCut and is ready!

Finishing Up

With your software installed, and your cutter setup on its stand and connected to your computer, we highly recommend you call us at 888-828-8776 to schedule your training session. Training sessions take approximately 1 to 2 hours and can cover SignCut, Flexi, InkScape (text on path, offsets, vectorization), contour cutting and your cutter functionality. Training is free and included for the life of the cutter regardless of the
warranty or cutter purchased.

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